I write this from a roadside restaurant somewhere south of
Chacheungsao, about 35 kilometers north of Chon Buri. I’ve eaten dinner and now I am just taking
refuge from the rain. When I pulled into
this place on my new motorcycle, I was utterly soaked, having been caught on
the road in the kind of rain only the tropics can produce.
See, my plan was to buy the motorcycle, find a place to stay
in Chacheungsao (CCS; I don’t know if that’s the official designation for the
town but I am not typing out Chacheungsao any more) then head to Chon Buri in
the morning… but…
Awww..damn… they’re kicking me out of restaurant right
now. They’re trying to close. Back out into the rain!!!
____________-
(three hours later)
I now sit comfortably in my palatial room at the SukjaiHotel Chon Buri. My body has been
loosened up by a harrowing two and a half hour motorcycle ride. It’s been an evening I will surely never
forget.
My teaching day ended at two PM today, but I had all kinds
of other tasks like preparing my assembly speech, lesson planning, etc., that
needed my attention, so when I bolted out the campus gate at 4 PM, so anxious
and excited about leaving town and buying a motorcycle, I had neglected to do a
couple basic things. Namely, plan my
trip. One of the major bus terminals in
BKK is half a block from my school, and a van to the town I needed to go to was
leaving just minutes after I bought my ticket (which was all of $2). Off I went!
I even got to ride shotgun up front with the driver!
See, I love travelling.
I don’t mean just the international kind, but just heading out of town
to see where my nose takes me. The Tour
d’Joko series on YouTube has tried to portray that spirit in video. Now, I’ve got an entirely new country in
which to continue my travels, and it was great to get that feeling I was doing
it again. I love travelling, but I’m
really bad at it.
At any point during the day today, I could have walked over
to the office desktop computer, jumped on the internet and searched for a place
to stay in CCS. This is what any prudent person would have done, but not me. I was travelling about
50 miles east of the middle of Bangkok to buy a motorbike from a guy I’d met
through an online expat forum in which I participate. In the back of my head I was thinking this
guy was going to welcome me to his town, show me around, be my buddy just
because we happened to both be American teachers in Thailand. Maybe even put me up for the night.
He was gracious enough in our contacts leading up to the
purchase. After a two and a half hour
bus-van ride (these things take a while in Thailand), he got on my phone and
gave directions to the motorcycle taxi guy.
Turns out he lives in the middle of CCS, which he described as a sleepy
town, but is nonetheless a provincial capital and kinda sprawling, as I found
out first hand.
Of course, there were a few idiosynchracies about the bike
that weren’t disclosed up front. For
example, after you turn on the ignition, you have to take the key out and put
it in your pocket. It won’t stay in the ignition;
it will fall out. The bike started up
easily enough; it had good compression.
It was also a two stroke which means you need to constantly add oil to
it and it uses special 95 octane gas, which the seller assured me I could buy
at any gas station. It also means it’s
quite fast for the CC’s. At Bt11K
($370), I wasn’t expecting perfection. A quick test drive (this thing has some PICKUP!) and I was sold.
Unfortunately, the seller didn’t offer to show me his
town. He had friends of his own in town
and we just made a business transaction.
The bike has all it’s paperwork, it’s insurance and taxes are up to date
and I was pleased enough with what I got. I didn’t make a new friend, but the
world doesn’t revolve around Joko’s whims and needs.
So I asked about any hotels in town.
Oh wow… hmmm… He called a buddy, trying to remember where
the “Latin Resort” was located, the only
hotel in CCS that he could think of. He
gave me fairly specific directions, but of course, I couldn’t find it.
I drove in circles, asked locals, found
another hotel (which had no vacancies), all the time using up the quarter tank
of special gas this bike takes. Then the
rain started pouring down. Wearing
glasses is great to ride a bike with in normal circumstances, it blocks the
wind and bugs. In the rain, however, I’d
need little windshield wipers . So I
could barely see, I was running around in circles and running out of gas.
Aha! A gas station!
“Is there 95?” I asked in my horrible Thai.
“We have no 95!” the attendant responded.
“95 is where?” I ask, frustrated, but relieved to at least
be under cover for a moment.
“A little bit that way at the next gas station,” I’m not
exactly sure that is what he said, but I was able to guess the meaning.
I go to the next gas station a little bit that way.
Repeat dialog above.
No 95 octane gas, but this time I get more detailed directions to the
next gas station, which is about a kilometer away. I head off into the monsoon once again,
praying I make it there.
It’s a Shell station.
Hallelujah for big multinational corporations! They have 95 octane gasohol! The cute little gas station attendant girl even
filled my tank for me.
Feeling fully armed with a full tank of gas, again I go
circling CCS. I pull up to people just
on the side of the road and ask, “Hotel?”
At one point, I thought this nice couple was going to show me exactly
where a hotel was as they indicated I should follow them on their
motorbike. Instead, they just lead me to
the next corner and tried to indicate with hand gestures where I might find
hotels.
I got on the road they told me, and at least I felt a little
more comfortable when I saw a sign that said ‘Bangkok: That WaY--->’ If worse came to worse, I knew the way home.
I spent 45 minutes doing this, but at least I was drying off
as the rain had stopped. The I saw a
sign that said: ‘Chon Buri: 38 km’…
Well, that’s just a bit over 20 miles!
Chon Buri is a coastal town. It’s
bigger. It’s where I was going tomorrow
anyways, and there’s bound to be hotels there!
To heck with this ‘sleepy’ town!
Why is it ‘sleepy’ towns offer so few places to sleep?
Cue thunder and lighting.
The skies opened up again, and now, I’m on a highway between towns with
no streetlights, poor road conditions
and trucks and buses barreling up behind me at high speed. Ack!
Did I forget to mention that the previous owner had just
replaced one of the pistons and warned me not to push the bike too hard while
the piston was still breaking in?
Then, I found the little restaurant I began this story
in. I pointed to pictures on the menu
when ordering dinner and they brought me a tempura feast that would have served
three people. I shared half of it with
the mangy street dog whom I bribed with breaded shrimp to be my table companion
for a while.
Even after an hour of sitting in this restaurant, the rain
still hadn’t stopped. Back out onto the
road, the kilometer signs to Chon Buri comfortably counting down. At about 25 km, the said I should turn
left, so I did. I found myself
approaching a toll booth. Oh.
I had
stumbled on one of Thailand’s toll superhighways. Was I even allowed to take a motorcycle on
one of these? I wasn’t sure. I proceeded thinking that they’d stop me at
the toll booth if I weren’t allowed.
I was also a little worried about the police. This journey was taken entirely without a
helmet, and they have a helmet law here.
I also forgot to bring my International Drivers Permit with me.
I roll into the toll lane and keep rolling. It’s not manned at this location at 9:45
PM. No one is there to stop me as I zip
onto the superhighway. The rain had
stopped, and I really could have opened her up to see how fast she could go,
but I was thinking about the piston.
Still, now I was making great progress, cruising along at about 90
kph.
There were no other motorcycles on the road though. Not even big ones. Cars and trucks were passing me on the ample
8-lane freeway, but I was at least keeping up with the slowest traffic. But was I allowed? Aha! A
rest stop up ahead. I'll ask there, and find a way off this road if I'm not supposed to be on it.
It was actually a little town entirely devoted to the
superhighway. And after asking some youths
hanging out in front of the 7/11 (by miming motorcycle, pointing to the highway and asking ‘okay?’), I learned
that not only was I driving on this major thoroughfare illegally, but there was
no way out of this little town except back onto the toll road! I was stuck!
Oh shit. I was going to get busted for sure. I even took a Bt500 note and folded it up
inside the photocopy of my passport I keep in my wallet. The bribe for when I was going to get stopped
was already prepared. I even took
all the rest of my money except for another 1000 Baht and hid it in my
backpack. I got paid in cash today for
my first two weeks teaching plus another nice chunk as reimbursement for my
hotel expenses when my contract was delayed.
Point being, I had about $700 in my wallet; I wasn’t going to let a cop
here get a glimpse of that.
Shitting bricks the whole way, I made it the next 25km to
the Chon Buri exit (the ONLY exit I’d encountered) without getting pulled over.
I'm safe in Chon Buri now, looking forward to a weekend adventure.
And so that’s the story so far, and it is still only Friday
Night. Well, there is the bit about the
hotel room soap, but I think that is better shared on video, and I forgot the
cable to get my video from camera to computer, so it’ll have to wait.
Tomorrow I hope to meet up with some friends who are coming
down from BKK via van-bus in the morning. There
is a beach here in Chon Buri. Being a
major manufacturing town, it’s probably not water one wants to get into, but I
look forward to at least seeing the sea again tomorrow.
And I can get where I want to go when I want to without thinking about bus fare because, I am, once again, motorized.