Weekend adventure live blogging. Day One.
After lunch here at the end of getting paid to do very
little week, I was so itching to leave early.
I took my usual approach that I’ve always used when wanting to leave
work early. I inform. I don’t ask. I tell the boss I gotta go. I don’t request permission. I even
had meteorological data to back up my excuse.
Right about 1 PM, the monsoon hit Bangkok. The bigtime thunder and lightning I’ve only
experienced in the tropics…. And Texas.
There were grumblings in the staffroom.
This being the start of a 4-day weekend, I wasn’t the only one with
plans. One of my co-workers even said, “I
get the feeling this is going to be one of those storms that last for hours and
hours,” which is usually not the case here in Thailand. My experience so far of the Rainy Season is
that although it rains most days, it’s always in the afternoon and never more
than an hour or so.
Still, I was worried about how this was going to effect my
plans to drive my motorcycle the 70 miles or so to the beachside resort town of
Pattaya. I certainly didn’t want to
drive in a thunderstorm.
As usual, the rain stopped after about 45 minutes. I found a website that gave hour-by-hour
weather forecasts for Bangkok.
Thunderstorms: 1 PM and again at
4 PM.
So, at 2:15 I told the boss I had to leave for weather
reasons.
Had it been a normal day, he would have totally bought it,
but since ALL of us were doing nothing productive and were itching to leave early, let me alone get
away with it wouldn’t seem fair. All of
us marching out nearly two hours early at 2:15 might have caused problems. I
had to stay.
At 3:00, I tried again, and this time, it worked. Off to Pattaya!! A quick stop at home and I
was on the road by 4:00.
The traffic was surprisingly light for a getaway
Friday. I was cruising along for quite a
stretch at 90 kph or so when suddenly I noticed something quite different about
the sound of my motorcycle. It was a
whole lot quieter. The rumble caused by the
crack in my tailpipe that’s been there since I bought the thing was suddenly gone. It sounded like a normal motorbike. What the?
The bike continued to operate fine. No problems at all with how it was running.
Still, I had to check out this mysterious curing of my tailpipe crack. I pulled over and examined the exhaust
system.
I quickly figured it out.
The nut and bolt that held the muffler to the frame had vibrated itself
out of its hole and now the whole tailpipe was just hanging there loose. The change in it’s angle had sealed the
crack, with the aft part of the pipe now wedged thoroughly into the fore. What to do?
I was in Nakhon Nowhere. I didn’t know the Thai word for “mechanic” and
I certainly wouldn’t be able to recognize the Thai writing for the word.
What else could I do?
I drove on, hoping the tailpipe would continue to hang in place until I
reached something that screamed MECHANIC at me or I got to my destination,
still a good 40 miles or so away.
Also, it was important I not waste a bunch of time getting
to Pattaya either. I didn’t have a firm
hotel reservation, merely an e-mail I’d sent a place I liked online to which I
got no response. I needed to get to
Pattaya to find a place to stay before everything booked up for the long
weekend.
Everything seemed to be going fine until I found myself at a
red light somewhere between Chon Buri and Sri Racha. I looked down at my tailpipe and it was
almost scraping the ground. I wasn’t
going to make it. Soon the tailpipe was going to snap clean off and then I’d
really be in trouble. I even thought to
myself, ‘one speed bum and that things is toast.’
I was really starting to panic when I came upon a gas
station with the symbol of a cogged wheel out front. Aha!
The international symbol of the mechanic! I pulled in.
The symbol referred to a place way in the back that looked
to be merely an lube & oil joint. It
looked closed. I pulled into the sole
bay and I saw guy through a cracked bathroom door. He was brushing his teeth and wearing only
boxer shorts.
That’s when I hit the speed bump. The entire muffler assemble fell to the
asphault just as I was stopping and shutting off the engine.
My horrendous Thai language skills were a little better than this guy’s
English, meaning he didn’t speak any at all, but with lots of miming and some basic
phrases, I got through to him that I wanted to fix this now, by whatever means
necessary because I was on my way to Pattaya.
I’m not sure what he actually said in Thai, but from the
delivery and body language, it seemed to me he was probably saying: “Dude, you’re
totally fucked. There is no way getting
that fixed here and now.”
When it looked like he wasn’t going to help me, I asked if I
could leave the bike there while I want went roaming the streets of Chon Buri
looking for an appropriate sized nut and bolt to replace what had fallen
out. He said something and disappeared
into the shop, only to come back with a wrench, a nut driver and big plastic
box filled with nuts and bolts of various sizes.
Jackpot!
I used my riding gloves to hold the still very hot tailpipe
in place while he fastened the muffler back to the frame.
Unfortunately, what had been an annoying hairline crack in
the tailpipe was now a quarter inch gap.
Might as well not even have a muffler at all. It was going to be very,
very, illegally loud.
Then boxer shorts dude walks back into the shop and comes
out with an empty Pepsi can, some aviation shears and some wire. Aha. I
immediately realized what he was thinking.
He cut away the top and bottom of the can and used the remaining
cylinder to MacGyver a collar to go over the gap in the exhaust assembly. He used the wire to tighten it in place. Brilliant!
I started up the bike and it still sounded offensively loud.. but it was better than nothing, and I could continue on my way.
The improvised collar lasted all of a few miles before
disintegrating.
In any case, I made it, exhausted, to Pattaya.
The place I had e-mailed had no idea who I was and they
certainly didn’t have any rooms. I went
to half a dozen other places and they were either way too expensive, had no
vacancies or didn’t have internet in their rooms (a necessity).
The most embarrassing part of the room search was pulling
into these little side streets. The bike
wasn’t all that offensive out on the main roads with their wide expanses. A Thai ‘soi’ is little more than an alleyway
with the buildings crowding in on it.
The sound of my bike echoed like someone lighting off an M-80 every few
fractions of a second.
Even the bargirls covered their ears.
But I found a place.
I am here. Tomorrow, I go to a real mechanic to see about fixing the
bike.
The road was long and tiring, so I got a nice massage before
writing this tonight, so at least story includes a happy ending.